The Campervan and Motorhome Book

Tens of thousands of people travel the length and breadth of this country using cars, 4WDs, campervans, motorhomes, caravans and trailers. For many such people, travelling is an ongoing way of life.

It is a rapidly expanding activity with associated clubs and organizations growing rapidly, yet despite this growth little independent information is available about the innumerable aspects of buying, building, converting, or even using, campervans and motorhomes.

Whilst building my own vehicle, I constantly received varying and often misleading information by salespeople, particularly about electrical matters. This book attempts to alleviate the situation for those seeking to buy , build or refit. And especially for those who intend to do the "big trip".

It's rare to get everything right first time. That which seems ideal on paper often proves impracticable in use. Hopefully this book will help you avoid at least some of the major traps.

It helps to gain first-hand experience before purchasing a vehicle or starting a long-term building project. Attend a few meetings of associated clubs, such as the Campervan & Motorhome Club of Australia, and talk to members about their vehicles, features and failings. Ideally, hire a motorhome or two to gain first-hand experience

The Author

I was originally a research engineer with General Motors Research Division, specialising in monitoring and measuring various aspects of vehicle behaviour and performance particularly in off-road usage. In the 1960s I drove a large 4WD mobile laboratory/motorhome twice across the length and breadth of Africa, recording track conditions. I spent further years running my own business designing and building everything from nuclear scanners to 500 tonne concrete testers before switching careers in 1970 to found the now-worldwide "Electronics Today International", and other publications in electronics, computing, telecommunications, and music.

From 1982-1990, I was technology editor of "The Bulletin" and "Australian Business". During this time I founded the periodical "Australian Communications" and also wrote the Federal Government's "Guide to Information Technology".

My wife (Maarit) and I own an Australian-made OKA that we converted into a fully off-road motorhome. We have taken this vehicle twice around Australia, including to the tip of Cape York, the long route across the Simpson desert, and many of Australia's major and minor inland tracks.

Chapter 1 - Choosing the Vehicle

• Campervan, motorhome, or converted coach? Every type of vehicle is used for holiday or permanent travelling. Ideally the choice is determined by traveling requirements, but compromise is often necessary - how to evaluate your needs...
• Commercial layouts - Storage space is usually sacrificed for accommodation...
• Travel lightly - You need little more to travel around a continent than for two weeks up and down the coast...
• Weight is the enemy - Excess weight not just causes problems - it escalates them...
• Campervans - Easy to drive and park. Cheap to buy run and service ...
• Going up in size - Experienced users find Toyota Coasters etc an ideal size...
• Large motorhomes - The same space but more luxury than most apartments - but driving and parking in cities can be a pain...
• Converted coaches - Rugged as big trucks but too large and heavy to take off a hard surface...
• Four-wheel drive - Useful for exploring outback areas, but when a 4WD gets bogged it does so thoroughly...

Chapter 2 - The Choice of Fuel - diesel, petrol or LPG?

• Petrol - Cheaper, smoother, quieter, but need more servicing. Uses more fuel...
• Liquefied petroleum gas - Smoother running, less engine wear, loweremissions. But cost savings due mainly to favourable taxation - if thatchanged!...
• Diesel - Better pulling power, ultra-reliable, cheap on fuel, but less flexible in city driving...
• Turbo charged diesel - Increases pulling power and efficiency. Can beretrofitted but best installed at chassis stage...
• Intercoolers - Further increases power (and efficiency) of turbo charged engines...
• Fuel consumption - Below 80 km/hr (50 mph), a 4-5 tonne diesel enginedmotorhome uses about 14 litre/100 km - increasing by about.... Petrolengined vehicles use about 40% more...
• The final choice? - For largish campervans, and motorhomes, I'd pick a diesel every time...

Chapter 3 - The Interior

• Let life-style determine layout - Will you live mainly outside, mainly inside - or somewhere between the two? Each needs a different approach ...
• Structured storage - The space required depends on how well it'sstructured - big open cupboards and shelves are hugely wasteful -thereare better alternatives...
• Wardrobes - Waste space and are claustrophobic in small vehicles - acceptable alternatives...
• Inside shower/toilet - Most owners find them essential...
• Beds - Preferably have a permanent bed rather than a dinette that converts - there are many ways of doing so...
• Kitchens - Adequate air intake and exhaust is essential. Consider aninside oven and a second outside two/three burner cook top...
• Washing machines - Use one with a low-energy DC motor...
• Pop-Top - or Full Height Roof? - Pop-tops reduce travelling height byhalf a metre, lower fuel consumption, provide good ventilation. Butthey need a lot of effort to raise and lower...
• Awnings - All-but essential but many are more picturesque than practical...
• Awnings for Pop Tops - Essential reading if planning to fit an awning to a pop top...
• Housing odds and ends - How to utilize otherwise wasted space...
• Air conditioning - Not necessarily bad, but must not replace natural ventilation.
• Interior heating - Diesel power is one possibility...

Chapter 4 - Building Your Own

• Staying within legal weight - A real trap for home builders...
• Keeping it light - Various materials, what they weigh and how to usethem (powder-coated sheet aluminium really saves weight!)...
• Keeping it upright - Locate heavy things low down and centrally between axles...
• Wire baskets - Consider using frames and pull-out wire baskets - how to do it...
• Wiring/pipes etc - Where and how to install, allowing for future access...
• Electrical wiring - Brief resume (but covered in detail in 'Motorhome Electrics - and Caravans too!)'...
• Insulation - There are thinner and more effective solutions than thick wool or fibreglass batts...
• Registering the vehicle - The local requirements...
• Weight of materials - Chipboard, plywood, water and diesel (plus tanks), batteries, solar modules etc....

Chapter 5 - The Electrics - an overview

• Staying on site use - Most commercially-built vehicles lack capacityfor more than one night away from mains power...
• The 'house' battery - The electrical equivalent of a bank - but only lets you withdraw a small part of that deposited...
• How much can I use? - Away from mains power - about 3%-5% of that of anall-electric home but this is not nearly as restricting as it mightseem. What can and cannot be used...
• Refrigerators - Gas, electric or units that run on either...
• Inverters & appliances - Consider inverter power for everythingexcept water heating, cooking and refrigeration...
• Computers - Big colour screens are energy gobblers - laptops are a better proposition..
• Lighting - Incandescent, halogen or fluorescent - how to choose...
• Electrical safety - The importance of correct polarity etc...

Chapter 6 - Batteries & Charging

• Why batteries disappoint - A standard vehicle charging system will notcharge a conventional battery beyond 70%. Nor can that battery bedischarged (without damage) consistently below 50%. This does not leavemuch to use...
• Solving the problem - Two ways or remedying the above...
• Smart regulators - Also known as three-step regulators - can double effective capacity...
• Alternators - There is little to be gained by a high output alternatoralone - here's what else needs to be done...
• The choice of battery - Starter, marine, deep-cycle, gel cell - or AGM? Their pros and cons...
• Measuring the state of charge - Voltage measurement is close to meaningless...

Chapter 7 - Solar & Other Energy

• Extending time on site - Three main ways of doing so...
• Solar energy - Clean, silent, and reliable...
• Estimating system sized - Panel output ratings can be misleading - here's what they really produce...
• Panel mounting - Permanently, or carried loose. The pros and cons of each, Does tracking matter?...
• Solar regulators - A must, with a few minor exceptions...
• Four typical systems - Recommendations for four typical systems...
• How much power each day? - The average power obtainable for all parts of Australia...
• Mains battery chargers - Many chargers kill batteries stone dead. How to choose one that doesn't...
• Wind power - Practicable only for long stays on exposed sites - if itswindy enough for the generator, it's too windy to camp!...
• Motor generators - An alternative to solar power, but noisy and costly to run...

Chapter 8 - Inverters

• Mains power from batteries - Now reliable and efficient, inverters makemains-powered appliances practicable...
• Avoid small loads - Inverters should not be used for very minor loadssuch as an electric clock (only). Here's why...
• Inverter size - Pick one big enough for the job - but no bigger/ How to establish the right size...
• Inverter types - Square-wave, modified square-wave, sine-wave. Picking the right one is essential...

Chapter 9 - Lighting

• Fluoro, compact fluoro, halogen, or incandescent? - Efficiencies and characteristics compared...

Chapter 10 - Refrigerators

• Three-way units - Use a lot of energy when running on electricity but economical and practicable (on gas) on site. Current models excellent in tropical climates but correct installation a must...
• Electric only - Effective on the hottest days. Smaller ones run effectively from solar panels...
• Eutectic - Once 'pumped down' (electric) eutectic refrigerators need to be on only two or three hours a day...
• Energy consumption - 40-70 litre chest opening units draw 25-45amp/hr/day. Large and door opening units use more..

Chapter 11 - Installing Gas

• The need for expertise - Installations must accord with relevant Gas Installation Codes (AG 5601-2002 in Australia) and must be done by a certified gas fitter
• Cylinder location - If remaining connected to piping, cylinders must be...
• Compartment ventilation - Adequate ventilation is obligatory - here's what's required...
• Connecting to appliances - Two legally acceptable alternatives....
• Air vents - There must be two permanent air vents (or an area related to vehicle length)...
• Gas detectors - There are problems with gas detectors in small spaces...
• Gas water heaters (storage) - They sound like an unattended blow lampin a small cupboard, but they are safe and reliable...
• Gas water heaters (instantaneous) - Only a 'room sealed appliance' maybe used - but at least one meets the legal requirements. Here are thedetails...
• Gas consumption - If used for cooking twice a day, a 9 kg cylinder may last 4-6 weeks...

Chapter 12 - Water

• Water quantity - How much per person/day...
• Water tanks - Stainless steel is safer and there's no problem with corrosion...
• Water pumps - An automatic pump detects pressure changes in the pipes -work best with a pressure accumulator...
• Water connection systems - Snap together systems are neat and quick toinstall, but lack of standards complicates....
• Hose quality - Pressurized water hose is normally made of clear plasticwith nylon reinforcement - also specialized hose for drinking water...
• Mains water pressure - Add a parallel water inlet with a pressure reducer...
• The need for filtering - Guardia (faecal contamination) andcrytosporidium are .... Other less-hostile contamination can also causeupsets...
• Types of filter - Permanently installed filtering will remove most nasties but not necessarily...
• Heating water - Black poly pipe in the sun. Utilising waste engine heat, diesel-powered heaters etc...

Chapter 13 - Preparing For the Trip

• Keeping it going - Poorly maintained vehicles a repairer's nightmare ...
• Diesels - ... dirty and contaminated fuel and water in the fuel arealso a problem - the latter can be dangerous...
• Suspect fuel - Cheap diesel of unknown brand may cause the engine to overheat and/or foul injectors ..
• Oils ain't necessarily oils! - Dirt build-up is not the only reason for changing oil...
• Petrol engines - Most breakdowns are attributable to fuel blockages or electrical problems...
• Servicing the electrics - The maintenance required...
• Computer-controlled engines - Increased reliability, but problems necessitate seriously expert attention...
• Air Filters - A four-litre engine takes in a volume of air the size amedium-sized house every 150 seconds - this air must be clean and...
• Avgas - Will not harm engines intended to run on leaded fuel...
• Spares - Carrying selected spares saves time and money, here's what's to take...
• Common Problems - A well-tested listing of the most likely problems, and how to avoid them...

Chapter 14 - Travelling in Isolated Areas

• Fuel availability - Less than 400 km intervals along most outback routes in Australia, but there are exceptions..
• Fuel storage - Jerry cans are cheap but storing them safely is a problem, there are better alternatives...
• Outback breakdowns - The most common outback problems are...
• Ingested dirt/water - An engine welcomes neither hot air, dust or anything liquid....
• Oil temperature - Almost as valuable as knowing water temperature...
• Bull bars - A need for long distance travelers and country dwellers,but there are concerns about their safety and specific requirements ifthere's air-bag protection...
• Off-road driving courses - Choose carefully - there's some macho egos around!...

Chapter 15 - Mainly About Tyres

• Overloading - "With gross overloading, and all-but universalunder-inflation, [US] recreational vehicle tyres are subject to moreabuse than any other known form of tyre usage ... including mine andquarry vehicles" (Quote for recent US survey)...
• Upgrading tyres - It makes sense to upgrade one or two ply ratings...
• Tubed or tubeless - By eliminating tubes, tyres run cooler and lastlonger, but tubes should be carried for emergency repairs...
• Retreads - Now more reliable, but care is needed that the casing is sound...
• Tyre balance - Particularly important for large wheels and for vehicleswith beam front axles. How to fix little-known problems with smalldiameter wheels with large tyres...
• Tyre pressures - Use tyre manufacturers' rather than vehicle makers recommendations - here's why...
• Reducing tyre pressure - Dropping tyre pressures may be essential insoft sand. How to do this without damaging the tyres...
• High pressure low profile tyres - May not be fully inflatable by out-of-town service stations...
• Dual rear wheels - Best avoided if travelling off-road...

Chapter 16 - Communications

• Alternatives - Cellular telephones, HF radio, satellite communications...
• HF Radio - Still valuable and with romantic appeal, but an increasingly obsolete technology...
• Satellite telephone,Small, light, reliable - but costly. But is the way of the future...
• Email - Good, cheap and effective way of keeping in touch from virtually anywhere..
• CB radio - For chatting and exchanging information, but cannot be relied on for emergency...
• EPIRBS - Automatically transmit a position indicating signal that isreceived by satellite - must be reserved for life-threateningsituations...

Chapter 17 - Television

• Outside town - With a basic antenna a good picture is usuallyreceivable within 15/20 km radius of cities and most large towns,better antennas will...
• TV antennas - No single antenna can optimally receive all stations...
• Recommended antennas - If you can live with UHF-only, the log periodic type is a good...
• Locating the antenna - VHF antennas need to be as high as possible - but UHF antennas...
• Antenna amplifiers - Can only boost signals that are already in thecable, but may assist in 'clean' fringe areas...
• Satellite TV - An acceptable picture can be picked up by a 900 mm dish, but 1200 mm is preferable...
• Choosing the TV - Any fringe area TV is fine if it's mains powered - otherwise go for a..
• Tuning the TV - Essentially simple but often complicated bysemi-comprehensible instructions. Here, in plain English, how to doit...
• Video recorders - Stick to basic units - or you'll pay for costly but rarely used...

Chapter 18 - Keeping Safe

• Avoiding being hassled - Usually just thoughtless drunks - but can be disconcerting - better to avoid such problems by...
• Fire - Install at least two dry powder extinguishers...
• Sandflies/Mosquitoes - More than a nuisance, and the latter carry dangerous viruses. Various ways of avoiding...
• Snakes - Defensive rather aggressive, most prefer to co-exist. Nevertry to kill one - that's how most people get bitten...
• Crocodiles - If you see them smile you are too close...
• Cyclones - The sources of information, and what the warnings mean.Protecting your vehicle. Knowing when to leave!...
• Bogged in Sand - Not hard to get out, but knowing how is essential...
• Broken windscreens - Stones mostly rise and fall. They are hurled towards you. How to avoid...

Chapter 19 - Keeping Legal

• Licence update - The various classifications, which is needed to drive what...
• Definitions - Vehicle classifications demystified...
• Towing - What you can tow with what...
• 'Camping' defined - You are likely to left alone if you do not raise apop-top roof, lower steps, have anything outside - and do not letanything drain onto the ground. Also camp well away from commercialcaravan parks...
• Drinking alcohol in camp - The intent of the relevant Act (Section 25of the Police Offenses Act) is explained. 'It is unlikely in theextreme that police would take action' etc...
• Fishing licences - Take this seriously, one State can even confiscate your vehicle...
• Voting - Pre-registering as an 'itinerant voter' allows....

Chapter 20 - Where to Travel

• Places to avoid! - travellers have outstripped facilities in many popular areas - but there's ample room if you know where to go. And when...
• Travelling on dirt roads - Where it's safe and when...
• Maps - Buying up-to-date maps is difficult outside major cities...
• GPS - Useful for hiking but overkill for most travellers...
• Quarantine exclusion zones - ...illegal to bring uncooked fruit and vegetables into...

Chapter 21 - What it Costs

• Average spending - It may be less than staying at home. Average costsincurred by typical travellers...
• Reducing costs - Slashing expenditure - most will (in a week or two) save more than the cost of this book!...
• Site fees - Ask about discounts - few operators will volunteer them...
• National Parks - Attractive and with basic facilities, but becomingincreasingly costly. But fees can be saved...
• Free camping - Most long-term travellers free-camp over 50% of the time. Tips on how to do it...
• Food - Likely to be your largest single cost, Save money by...
• Eating out - Often disappointing outside major cities...
• Insurance - It pays to shop around....
• Concessions - Checking your entitlements can save a lot of money...
• Probable living costs - An itemised and yearly updated Table..

Appendix 1

• Likely Needs (and their individual weights) - includes: general, medical, kitchen, cleaning, supplies, food, recreation, tools, reference material, VITAL THINGS, comprehensive check lists. Also probable total weight....

Appendix 2

• Contact details - Names, addresses, phone numbers etc, of related organizations, companies and suppliers.

Appendix 3

• The Campervan & Motorhome Club of Australia Ltd. About this worthwhile and rapidly growing Club.